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Crete Part III: Not-So Stranded in the Underrated Rethymno

Crete Part III: Not-So Stranded in the Underrated Rethymno

Our plan for our honeymoon was to explore Crete, Santorini, and Athens, and I was eager to recreate a version of that trip.

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However, upon researching both ferries and flights from Crete to Santorini, we realized we were in a serious bind. We had plans to meet up with Willโ€™s parents in England by mid-October. However, that was proving to be more logistically challenging coming from Chania.

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Will and I went down a rabbit hole on Skyskanner by trying to get creative, wanting to explore another island before England. For some unbeknownst reason, flights from Athens to London were exorbitantly expensive.

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After working ourselves into a tizzy, we found a random, reasonably priced ticket from Chania to London. So rather than bending over backwards to follow my own preconceived vision of island hopping, we decided to stay in Crete.

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For me, it was a lesson in stop getting fixated on a plan and forcing the issue. So much of this year has been about learning to adjust, being flexible.

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And above all, relying on Skykannerโ€™s fly โ€œEverywhereโ€ feature, to find the least expensive dates and destinations to fly.

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Crete itself is a bit like itโ€™s own country separate from Greece, with itโ€™s own customs and cuisine. After all, itโ€™s union with Greece is fairly recent, only dating back to the turn of the 20th century. For a change in scenery, we took the bus to Rethymno.

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Rethymno feels untouched. Itโ€™s not as popular as Chania, though thereโ€™s ample to explore.

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Some of the narrow streets felt more quintessentially Greek to me.

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Plus, itโ€™s easy access to southern Crete, which is arguably to most scenic, naturally stunning part of the island.

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In many ways, Rethymno felt like a smaller Chania, with a central harbor lined with cobbled stone streets with shops and restaurants.

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We rented a studio apartment for another week.

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There was a lovely garden patio view.

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And when you really craned your neck, a view of the ocean as well.

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One of my regrets this year was not taking photos of our accommodations. This studio was a tight fit, but so sweet.

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We quickly found our favorite local spots. Unoriginally, we discovered Bar B.Q. for the best souvlaki in town.

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We went a few times for both lunch and dinner, and you really couldnโ€™t go wrong. Everything on the menu was fantastic.

Chicken souvlaki and a grilled cheese burger with thick, homemade sliced potato chips

Chicken souvlaki and a grilled cheese burger with thick, homemade sliced potato chips

Dakos: Cretan meze with soaked barley rusk, chopped tomatoes, and mizithra cheese

Dakos: Cretan meze with soaked barley rusk, chopped tomatoes, and mizithra cheese

Rethymno is situated on the northern coast of Crete. It has a generously wide, sandy beach.

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Fortunately, we got a beach day in before the temperature dropped.

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We also made it a point to take a few day trips. One, being the Gorge of Mili.

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We asked the attendant at the local bus station if there was a hike nearby. She directed us to a minivan, so we go in, not quite knowing what to expect.

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The mountainous road up winded around fields of wildflowers, providing some stunning vantage points.

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We were completely taken aback by the manicured, yet rustic, pathway.

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It felt a bit like an enchanted forest.

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The gorge itself runs along a river bed, yielding water year round.

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In the past, two creeks and several smaller mills created a tremendous amount of power for Rethymno.

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The first documented use of the mills were in 1643 during the Venetian rule.

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However, the ruins from the mills have been abandoned since 1972.

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The approximately 30 mills along the river supplied the entire area of Rethymno with flour.

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Soon after we started the trek, we met a fellow traveler from Germany, who we proceeded to explore with.

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Will made a few other friends as well.

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As we carried on along the two and a half mile long canyon, the path became less manicured. Little protection from alleged impending landslides were slightly unnerving.

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We discovered a few, small locally run churches off the beaten path.

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However, the real reward was coming across a stone path through the brook.

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We finally reached the bottom, in which the three of us grabbed some local mountain tea at an eclectic cafe.

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Perhaps my favorite day trip was two days later down south to Plakias and then to Preveli.

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Plakias is surrounded by mountains to the north and the Libyan Sea to the south.

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We took an early bus about 25 miles, or an hour south, of Rethymno to one of the most stunning coastlines in Crete.

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The crescent shaped bay is situated between two wind tunnels, the gorges fo Selia and Kourtaliiotiko.

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We took the winding path down to the beach, and were treated to absolutely breathtaking views.

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Once we did reach the Prevali beach, it was so windy.

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We had our packed picnic lunch, and decided to make it a trekking day rather than a beach day.

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Fortunately, directly behind the beach was the walking trail, Palm Forest.

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We entered the slightly ominous, flooded trail, and couldnโ€™t stop make comparisons to Jurassic Park.

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The path followed a murky river that led to the ocean. Oftentimes, we had to forge our own trail.

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However, we reached a stopping point.

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At this point the trail was completely flooded with no way to passing, so we were forced to make an about face.

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We got back to the beach around 2 p.m., and still had another five hours before the next bus came at 7 p.m.

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We decided to walk back to Prevali, another bus pick up location.

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Thereโ€™s not set walking path, but we followed the roadโ€”itโ€™s roughly an eight mile trek.

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However, the rocky, lush, mountainous scenery was awesome.

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And thereโ€™s so much we would have missed if we simply stayed put.

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Sitting still is neither of our fortes.

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The countryside was indescribable. We were able to divert from the main road of traffic.

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Majority of the way was walking through olive groves.

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We also dipped in and out of scenic mountain villages, in which we were granted a window into local life.

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Once we finally reached Preveli, the temperature had seriously dropped. We warmed up with a tahini chocolate dessert and more mountain tea. Itโ€™s believed the herbs in the surrounding area have tremendous healing power. Plants such as Cretan Tulip flourish in the unique ecosystem, and make a for a stellar mountain tea. 

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Iโ€™d be remised if I didnโ€™t mention it was Willโ€™s birthday while we were in Rethymno. We celebrated with massages at the Swan Spa, which was a real treat.

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Naturally, it was the only day it rained that week, but we cozied up with tea and flapjack cookies.

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For dinner, we went out to Prima Plora, an upscale organic seafood and wine bar on the water. Certainly the nicest meal we enjoyed in Crete.

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We started with the best olive oil Iโ€™ve had in my life, with local breads and a bottle of white.

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For dinner, I ordered the cuttlefish risotto, in itโ€™s own ink, and Will had the sun dried octopus.

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I surprised him with the chocolate cake for dessert. It was a beautiful celebration and an incredibly tasty meal.

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Our time in Rethymno completely caught me off guard. The gorges, the lush green mountains, the olive groves and the endless dramatic coastlines.

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For me, Rethymno quickly became one of the most memorable aspects of our time in Crete.

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